Briggs fuel tank leaking- Can it be sealed/repaired?

[creia]

1969 Briggs 5 HP Easy Spin "Kool Bore", horizontal shaft
M- 130202
T- 0140-01
C- 6908217
This is the type with the rear-mounted tank with the "Pulsa-Jet" carb bolted to the top of the tank. The 3/4 gallon metal fuel tank is made in 2 pieces and has an interlocking seam at mid-height with what appears to have an amber-colored epoxy that seals the seam. The "leak" is actually a very SLIGHT seeping at 2 locations. I do not have fuel actually running out, however, the seepage is enough to discolor and dissolve the paint for about 3/4" along the seam in those 2 areas. In 15 years of rebuilding/restoring these vintage engines this is the first fuel tank lank leak I've encountered- I guess I have been lucky considering the age of the engines I work on!
OK- here is my question...
Is there a legitimate way (one that will last) to seal this seam leak? I cannot see any missing, damaged, or openings in the epoxy in those 2 leak areas. Whatever sealant I use (if there even is one) would have to be paintable as well. Or is it just time to install another tank?
Thank you as always,
Michael

[bgsengine]

I've soldered them before, no problems, just can't use open flame torch, you need a real hot soldering iron , or one of those brazing irons that you have to heat with a torch - ordinary electrical wiring soldering guns won't do the job.

If you can find the right solder and flux for it though, there's also the toaster oven technique... apply flux, lay solder on, and then pop in oven to the right temperature...

OTOH if you can be assured of the tank being stripped down completely and 100% free of any fumes, you could probably solder it with a propane torch. The "epoxy" is more likely a form of rubber they used to seal the seams which were then crimped , so if you go the soldering route, probably will have to heat & re-solder the full seam.

[KE4AVB]

Well at least the tank is still available. PN 297600 superseded to 494592. Unlike many of the engines I get here where I can't repair the engine because of rusted out tanks. I just to kill a good engine on a 1992 engine because the tank was rusted out.

[creia]

Gentlemen,
Thank you for the replies.
If I understand correctly, If I decide to go the soldering method, I would need to do the ENTIRE seam perimeter, correct? (I am assuming that is because the heat of the soldering of a couple of "spot repairs" would damage (melt) any adjacent seamsealer that was used from the factory and it would leak, correct?) That process is likely more than I would want to take on...
Yes, the new tanks are still available NOS on eBay, but I will try sourcing a good used one for some $$ savings. Like I said in my original post this is a first for me in 15 years (at least 30 engines), so I cannot imagine that this is a very common failure which makes me relatively comfortable buying a used tank.
Michael

[hanz63]

I would be concerned about how long the well inside has left. I don't even want to service them if they are all rusted.

[creia]

I would be concerned about how long the well inside has left. I don't even want to service them if they are all rusted.

No rust whatsoever in the tank or the well. Appearance-wise the tank looked very good. That is why I was surprised by the seam leaking (no visible damage to the seam or the sealant along the seam as well) The only thing I can think of is maybe the AGE of this tank and (especially) the sealant used at the seam (53 years old!) maybe the sealant degrades(shrinks?) after this many years and the seal at the seam is compromised?
Michael

[grunt]

Would re-crimping the seam all the way around using a bench vise work? Just a thought.

[creia]

Would re-crimping the seam all the way around using a bench vise work? Just a thought.

Thanks grunt- interesting idea.
I decided to go another direction and I sourced a good (non-leaking) used tank for a cheap price and just swap the tanks out.
Michael