bgsengine wrote:What KE4 said - Sounds like you maybe flooded engine a bit. Make sure you are using the CORRECT spark plug (They can be finicky about that, like some Echo's) also try a different plug (possible a piece of carbon broke free and lodged in plug between insulator and causing a short) Also, you say 6 pulls - you don't count pulls when testing compression - You just crank 'er over until the compression gauge needle stops moving... could happen in 3 pulls, could happen in 10 .. 110 is kind of the low end of compression readings for those. If it won't fire on a shot of carb cleaner, you very well may have flooded it - hang it with plug hole facing down overnight plug removed, (and pop off carb & fuel tank) Raw fuel can get into the crankcase and then it gets sucked in as liquid fuel (which won't burn) and thus you won't get it to fire. Before putting plug back in next day (and assembling carb & tank) make sure you crank it over a bunch of times to be sure you evacuated all of it. They're HARD to get started again after they get flooded (or overchoked) even with a shot of carb cleaner.
Finally - Those engines you should get yourself a grommet & line kit , new fuel filter, and replace all lines & filter every year as part of maintenance. They're relatively cheap - even if you buy the OEM Echo 90069 kit (or buy a box of 90014 fuel line, a 5-pack of grommets, and a few extra fuel filters and make your own kits.. may also want to check or test the pressure relief check valve it should hold no more than 3 - 7 PSI pressure and allow ZERO vacuum (if it holds NO pressure, may want to replace it too)
38racing wrote:bgsengine wrote:What KE4 said - Sounds like you maybe flooded engine a bit. Make sure you are using the CORRECT spark plug (They can be finicky about that, like some Echo's) also try a different plug (possible a piece of carbon broke free and lodged in plug between insulator and causing a short) Also, you say 6 pulls - you don't count pulls when testing compression - You just crank 'er over until the compression gauge needle stops moving... could happen in 3 pulls, could happen in 10 .. 110 is kind of the low end of compression readings for those. If it won't fire on a shot of carb cleaner, you very well may have flooded it - hang it with plug hole facing down overnight plug removed, (and pop off carb & fuel tank) Raw fuel can get into the crankcase and then it gets sucked in as liquid fuel (which won't burn) and thus you won't get it to fire. Before putting plug back in next day (and assembling carb & tank) make sure you crank it over a bunch of times to be sure you evacuated all of it. They're HARD to get started again after they get flooded (or overchoked) even with a shot of carb cleaner.
Finally - Those engines you should get yourself a grommet & line kit , new fuel filter, and replace all lines & filter every year as part of maintenance. They're relatively cheap - even if you buy the OEM Echo 90069 kit (or buy a box of 90014 fuel line, a 5-pack of grommets, and a few extra fuel filters and make your own kits.. may also want to check or test the pressure relief check valve it should hold no more than 3 - 7 PSI pressure and allow ZERO vacuum (if it holds NO pressure, may want to replace it too)
On the plug issue. Mantis says cj6y or ngk bpmr7y. In it before was a bpmr7a. My suppliers shows cj6y crossing to bpmr7a. What's the difference on ngk ending in a or y. I put in new plug that crossed to cj6y.
I redid my coil wire test with better contact. 2500 ohms. Moving wire didn't cause changes this time.
KE4AVB wrote:I think you the plug numbers wrong. It should BKR5E and BKR5ES.
IF you look at the NGK decode chart the "E" just indicates that plug has a 19mm thread reach or has a special design firing tip. The "S" indicates it has an Copper core center electrode.
But no one bothers to look in the downloads. I got two NGK catalogs and the decode chart posted under the Briggs downloads under Spark Plugs.
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