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B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby KE4AVB » Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:11 am

Hmmm with some impacts out there now you can crack or split a flywheel at that taper mount and it can also make it nearly impossible to get back off later. I seen one last year that had two inch cracked across that taper which explained why the customer's flywheel was rubbing on the crankcase. He was doing his on overhaul and ran into this problem. I ask him what he torque it to and he said just used a 3/4 impact.

I sold him another engine that was already rebuilt. I paid him what costs for the parts he used basis on his receipts and have since sold those parts. As for the engine it went to the recycling center as he had screw it up otherwise too.
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby Deere2me » Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:20 pm

KE4AVB wrote:Hmmm with some impacts out there now you can crack or split a flywheel at that taper mount and it can also make it nearly impossible to get back off later. I seen one last year that had two inch cracked across that taper which explained why the customer's flywheel was rubbing on the crankcase. He was doing his on overhaul and ran into this problem. I ask him what he torque it to and he said just used a 3/4 impact.

I sold him another engine that was already rebuilt. I paid him what costs for the parts he used basis on his receipts and have since sold those parts. As for the engine it went to the recycling center as he had screw it up otherwise too.

How 'bout that.....didya notice that with some CARS out there you can go waaaay over 100mph!! Make it nearly impossible to extricate ya should you wreck!
So the lesson here is USE COMMON SENSE, no?
Just 'cause I recommend using an impact, it doesn't mean to blast it into oblivion. I've used an impact for years ( still do) with ZERO ISSUES!
You DID notice the OPs flywheel is cast iron, right?
http://ppeten.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=836

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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby bgsengine » Mon Apr 14, 2014 2:27 pm

Deere2me wrote:You DID notice the OPs flywheel is cast iron, right?
Doesn't matter - overtorque them, they can still split - have seen it myself - after somebody used a 1/2" impact with no common sense applied..
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby Deere2me » Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:56 pm

bgsengine wrote:
Deere2me wrote:You DID notice the OPs flywheel is cast iron, right?
Doesn't matter - overtorque them, they can still split - have seen it myself - after somebody used a 1/2" impact with no common sense applied..


Common sense being the key word!
Personally, Ive not seen a cast iron flywheel split...must be a Pennsyltucky thing!
http://ppeten.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=836

I quote:
"Don't pay any attention to old Dummy."- okie
"pompous a**hole"- steinuit13
"I agree, Deere is a negative around here to say the least"-mek a nik
Nice, huh?
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby KE4AVB » Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:17 pm

Deere2me wrote:Common sense being the key word!
Personally, Ive not seen a cast iron flywheel split...must be a Pennsyltucky thing!

Well I have seen one here on 12.5 Briggs and couldn't find an used one anywhere close. Customer retire it and the junk mower it was on. Cost more to fix both than a good used mower I had which he thought 350.00 with 90 day warranty was too much. He brought a 200.00 mower and spent another 300.00 fixing the deck and drive problems.
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby bgsengine » Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:44 pm

Deere2me wrote:
bgsengine wrote:
Deere2me wrote:You DID notice the OPs flywheel is cast iron, right?
Doesn't matter - overtorque them, they can still split - have seen it myself - after somebody used a 1/2" impact with no common sense applied..


Common sense being the key word!
Personally, Ive not seen a cast iron flywheel split...must be a Pennsyltucky thing!


I'm sure you will eventually
- after 30+ years in the business, working with them 6 - 7 days a week, Whether they were aluminum or cast Iron, Ive seen them split, cracked, broken, come loose, even cracked all the way around the hub so the flywheel would spin, but the crank would not turn... and even shattered to bits and blown out through the blower housing in shrapnel pieces (one of those was on a Wisconsin VH-4D.. glad no one was around that monster when the flywheel went... the other one also a cast iron flywheel on a Tecumseh 5 HP Snowblower - owner had "adjusted the governor" to make it blow snow further.. hehehe. )

Its entirely possible the one I saw split (A Briggs 15.5 HP OHV) from using an impact may have already been cracked from something else, allowing it to split right down the keyway.. no way to tell.. but that was the way it came in. :)
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby GoatDriver » Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:05 am

This flywheel came off of a Kohler that the customer brought to us because "it would not run anymore"...when customer was questioned about what lead up to the situation...he said......."I took the flywheel off to clean the magnets and get a rat nest out" after more questions.."Oh,..I just ran it up with my impact wrench".
It had sheared the key because the flywheel would no longer stay tight on the shaft due to the cracks spreading open.
They have torque specs for a reason......

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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby jwales » Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:11 am

I think I have common sense but I have not been so lucky lately :lol: so I have a friend that has a bigger ft./lbs. torq wrench I can borrow. Suggestions on how to keep crank from spinning when torqing (not twerking :P )???

Some rope in the cylinder through the plug hole?
Not familiar with how much 110 ft./lbs. feels like. Is it possible a two person job, one holding the flywheel while the other torqs it down?? Neither person is Superman. :lol:
Thanks
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby bgsengine » Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:32 am

jwales wrote:I think I have common sense but I have not been so lucky lately :lol: so I have a friend that has a bigger ft./lbs. torq wrench I can borrow. Suggestions on how to keep crank from spinning when torqing (not twerking :P )???

Some rope in the cylinder through the plug hole?
Not familiar with how much 110 ft./lbs. feels like. Is it possible a two person job, one holding the flywheel while the other torqs it down?? Neither person is Superman. :lol:
Thanks


On a typical pushmower you can just block the blade with a chunk of wood, most manufacturers recommend using a strap wrench , one can be made from a piece of square tubing that a 1/2" drive breaker bar will fit in, cut a slot, and get some seat belt webbing from local auto junkyard or auto parts store and make a strap wrench from that to wrap around the flywheel - If you got the pecs for it, 150 Ft Lbs is not difficult at all , on average 110 Ft Lb is about as difficult, with a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and a breaker bar being equal length, (about 18" to 24" handles) as, say, pushing a 50Lb bag of seed off a shelf - 110 Ft Lbs with 2 Ft of leverage means you need to apply 55 lbs of force at the end of the lever. with a 3 Ft lever, that is reduced to 36.66 Lbs of force applied.. with a 10 ft lever you could achieve that torque with an 11 pound weight force.

Easy calculation.
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)
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Re: B&S 31C707 0230 E1 030517ZE flywheel

Postby jwales » Wed May 21, 2014 10:11 am

Thanks for all the help. Got the flywheel key and a torq wrench to spec and (with previous work, head gasket,valve adjustment, carb cleaning) it runs great!
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