Honda GCV won't run after new carb. I need HELP!

[Cobrargc]

My mower is a Toro 20194 with a Honda GCV. The Toro parts list that came with the mower list the engine as GCV160A NBL1. The carb that came off is stamped BB62BE. The parts parts list shows two carbs used on this mower. One being the BB62BE Honda part number 16100-ZM0-804 (this is the carb I recently ordered online) and an alternate carb BB62WA Honda part number 16100-Z0L-003. This morning I installed what I thought was the 16100-ZM0-804 carb I had ordered. This engine simply will not run on it's own! It spits and sputters and will only run if the choke is at 3/4 closed and then hunts badly. I installed all the correct gaskets and a new air cleaner assembly. The initial order backs up my "804" carb purchase, but the invoice shows I was sent a 16100-Z0L-023 (BB62W C) carb.

Do I have a defective carb? Is there that much difference in Honda carbs that the mower won't run with a different carb? The carbs look npretty much identical except the fuel bowl on my original carb is a different shape, a bit larger and has a drain nut.

The carbs are so cheap for the Honda's that it seems a no brainer to just change them out. Is there even a kit to rebuild my original carb?

[Deere2me]

The carb should be fine. Most of the replacement carbs have that really small tapered bowl, I reckon to help cut down on evap. emissions or some such bullchit. Go back and check the gaskets and the plastic spacer, ya prolly messed up on the install and its sucking air. The plastic spacer can be installed upside down.

[bgsengine]

First, are you sure you got an original OEM Honda carburetor, and not a "clone" ? OEM Honda carbs mostly come in thick sealed poly bag with sticker, often wrapped in bubble wrap. Some come boxed, but they DO come packaged.. But I've been burned a couple times myself ordering from other places and got switched out for a cheap "clone" carburetor.. havent had that happen since we now buy from the distributor.

The 16100-ZM0-804 carburetor has been superseded to Honda 16100-Z0L-023, which seems to indicate you got the correct carburetor.

Getting the gaskets in the *right order* is only half of the battle - also have to get them in the *right orientation* and keep them all lined up perfectly while assembling it to the engine - Make installation studs by cutting the heads off a couple old carb bolts helps a LOT - long as the old bolts are much longer than the correct ones - you assemble everything over the studs, then hold everything tightly to the engine block while removing one stud and install a bolt, rinse and repeat on the other.

Some of the gaskets can be installed 2 ways, but there's only one *right* way, and wrong way installation can often result in your symptoms.

[Cobrargc]

The carb came in a green tinted sealed bag with the red/white Honda sticker and wrapped in bubble wrap. I got it from Boats.net.

[Deere2me]

The carb came in a green tinted sealed bag with the red/white Honda sticker and wrapped in bubble wrap. I got it from Boats.net.

As it should be. I've dealt with that place a bunch of times, always great prices and service!

[KE4AVB]

I would check the heat insulator. If installed backwards creates a huge vacuum leak.

[Cobrargc]

What a dummy. Everything was oriented correctly, but the right carb bolt missed plastic spacer and it had fallen on one side. All is now good. Thanks

[Deere2me]

What a dummy. Everything was oriented correctly, but the right carb bolt missed plastic spacer and it had fallen on one side. All is now good. Thanks

Once again... that's what they pay me the big bucks fer!!

Those Honda's are a PITA to get everything lined up. That's why most mechanics that work on em make up/use a set of line up studs. (As bg mentioned) I made my own using a couple of long Kaw. carb mtg. bolts.