Removing old sump/side cover gasket material

[creia]

What are some of the techniques you professionals use to remove old gaskets?
Most of the 50-60 year old aluminum engines I work on have never had the original one removed. On both the block and the sump/side cover the gaskets are REALLY on there and always come off in small bits and pieces. Typically, my technique is to use a single edge razor blade (in a holder) and CAREFULLY slice them off and using caution to not dig into the aluminum underneath. (I learned years ago "the hard way" what happens with overzealous slicing and scraping with a razor blade will do to the mating surfaces!) With care and patience I can usually get the surfaces gasket free but it takes A LOT of time. Is there a better way? Is there any solution that will dissolve the gasket material? What do you guys do? The engine I am currently working on , a 1969 Briggs 3 HP, (replacement block for the one that was shot is my previous post) is especially difficult.
Thanks for any suggestions...
Michael

[KE4AVB]

I use 3M-03157 Scotch Brite pads and my die grinder with the quick change adapter. Can be a little rough on the metal but with carefully use you just remove the gasket material. Can always with a less aggressive pad grit.

[hanz63]

Though hard on the fingers, the old razor blade - the side edges too- do much of the block work. I have a Bahco Ergo Pocket Scraper that can be real trick at times, worthless at other times. Various Scotch Brite pads, stripping pads work well on Graphoil. Power stuff I'm more Ok with removable parts like a head or sump so I feel I can clean up better. Blocks I like to manually. Chemicals can help like the old oven cleaner or silicone remover. In one shop I was in, we had a big steam cleaner. Like set a truck engine block in it and let it go. Sure made things nicer.

[creia]

Thank you for the replies. You have given me an idea to use my Dremel tool. I have some small "Scotch Brite" type attachments that I am going to try.
Michael

[bgsengine]

Ive also used an aluminum safe oven cleaner which can attack the carbonized gasket material pretty well, without etching the aluminum, but I dont remember what brands it was Like KE4,I switched to using scotch-nrite but you will want to practice a bit on the old throw-away block first as it is pretty easy to "sand" a dip into the gasket surface

[SUKI]

Yes you got to use common sense. You only use to pad where the gasket is and light buff the rest of the surface so the gasket sticks better. Gaskets don't hold their position very well on mirror like surfaces.

[Arkie]

Yes you got to use common sense. You only use to pad where the gasket is and light buff the rest of the surface so the gasket sticks better. Gaskets don't hold their position very well on mirror like surfaces.

I have some fine soft wire wheel brushes about 3-4 inches in dia and about 1/2 inch wide they type that has a 1/4 arbor. They will remove the hard gasket material but not groove the aluminum if you use common sense approach. I do not use the medium or coarse grade due to them being too aggressive. I sometimes use a long flat file to slight dress the long surface ALUMINUM edge when the file will lay flat AFTER THE GASKET MATERIAL HAS BEEN REMOVED. Gasket removal prep requires more careful attention when cleaning aluminum as compared to steel.

When removing the hard dried gasket material from aluminum block or sump I use the brush in a variable speed drill and keep the brush in line with the aluminum edge, not crossways.
It will remove the old dried hard gasket pieces and also break and clean the aluminum glaze.
Not a good thing when a newly installed sump gasket starts seeping hot oil.

Wear safety glasses. Kinda little bit nasty job and not fun.

[Arkie]

Yes you got to use common sense. You only use to pad where the gasket is and light buff the rest of the surface so the gasket sticks better. Gaskets don't hold their position very well on mirror like surfaces.

I have some fine soft wire wheel brushes about 3-4 inches in dia and about 1/2 inch wide they type that has a 1/4 arbor. They will remove the hard gasket material but not groove the aluminum if you use common sense approach. I do not use the medium or coarse grade due to them being too aggressive. I sometimes use a long flat file to slight dress the long surface ALUMINUM edge when the file will lay flat AFTER THE GASKET MATERIAL HAS BEEN REMOVED. Gasket removal prep requires more careful attention when cleaning aluminum as compared to steel.

When removing the hard dried gasket material from aluminum block or sump I use the brush in a variable speed drill and keep the brush in line with the aluminum edge, not crossways.
It will remove the old dried hard gasket pieces and also break and clean the aluminum glaze.
Not a good thing when a newly installed sump gasket starts seeping hot oil.

Wear safety glasses. Kinda little bit nasty job and not fun.

Uh-Oh:

I should have not responded to your question because I noticed you only asked for replies from the professionals. Please forgive me.

[bgsengine]

Uh-Oh:[/u][/b]

I should have not responded to your question because I noticed you only asked for replies from the professionals. Please forgive me.

LOL you're probably as much a pro as many of us old timers, I'd imagine.

(and as far as wire brush wheel, I've done that too but it's time consuming, tedious and frustrating on some of those especially hard bits...)