puzzler Kohler k301 just stops

[bgsengine]

I guess I should install a new point set too. Had be reluctant but I now realize that they are external so no flywheel to pull. I guess I should have expected that as it's automotive style coil setup.

If you do that, pull out the breaker pushrod and see if it is magnetic - If it is not (aluminum) they had issues with wear that might could possibly cause your problem (though not so consistently) - updated pushrods are steel (part number 47-411-04, if I remember right) . also probably want new gasket (Think it is 52-041-11-S) and grommet (220297-S, if my memory serves me right) with new wire and provided they are put in properly you should be able to eliminate the entire ignition system (except coil and power supply to coil)

[38racing]

I guess I should install a new point set too. Had be reluctant but I now realize that they are external so no flywheel to pull. I guess I should have expected that as it's automotive style coil setup.

If you do that, pull out the breaker pushrod and see if it is magnetic - If it is not (aluminum) they had issues with wear that might could possibly cause your problem (though not so consistently) - updated pushrods are steel (part number 47-411-04, if I remember right) . also probably want new gasket (Think it is 52-041-11-S) and grommet (220297-S, if my memory serves me right) with new wire and provided they are put in properly you should be able to eliminate the entire ignition system (except coil and power supply to coil)

Had a few minutes tonight. Removed point cover. Grommet was not in the cover, down on the wire. Will check plunger tomorrow with magnet. I did notice that I could move the wire connecting eyelet slightly side to side. I tightened it and now it moves but is twisting the spring metal which I don't think moved with eyelet before. Point gap checked out at .020 and using ohmmeter check for point opening the timing mark showed up ok. I'll order points tomorrow. My supplier shows oem set including bracket. Think I'll hold off replacing coil since its 26 bucks. Puzzling is still that it has spark until it stops but maybe at wrong time or too weak.

[38racing]

If ignition stuff doesn't fix it I'll have to fab something for a throttle rod to work on the replacement carb.

[38racing]

Does anyone know how the ball is attached to the throttle lever? Does ball thread onto a bottom pin or is bottom of ball stem pressed onto lever?

[bgsengine]

Does anyone know how the ball is attached to the throttle lever? Does ball thread onto a bottom pin or is bottom of ball stem pressed onto lever?

3 ways I have seen that the ball end fits to throttle lever: 1) peened (like a rivet) 2) threaded base of the ball and a nut on bottom side of lever 3) brazed in place

[38racing]

Does anyone know how the ball is attached to the throttle lever? Does ball thread onto a bottom pin or is bottom of ball stem pressed onto lever?

3 ways I have seen that the ball end fits to throttle lever: 1) peened (like a rivet) 2) threaded base of the ball and a nut on bottom side of lever 3) brazed in place

Thanks. Looks like I am #1.

[38racing]

So I didn't check points pin material and didn't change wire from points to coil. But I changed points and coil. (condenser previously done). Checked timing and very slightly advanced of spec as timing mark is in upper section of timing view hole. Test run on noload for 30 minutes and I shut it down. Tonight I cut grass for 55 minutes. Ran out grass. Yes I mean grass , not gas. Fingers crossed it's fixed.

[38racing]

So it's a year+ later. He says it smokes and just stops again. He brought it over. First time I just start to see how long it would run. No question that it smokes, especially at startup and decreases after running a bit. While it ran I pulled off the air filter . About 4 inches of outer ring is clogged tight plus dandelion fur around more of it. I left it running with filter off and it ran 10 minutes and never stopped. I cleaned up filter with compressed air and fired up. I let it run with just moving back and forth a bit. Ran over 20 minutes and never stopped. So next day I did a cutting test. Almost half hour and it never stopped. I changed oil and used 20w50. Still smoked at startup and did another cutting. Again it never stopped. There is some smoke out breather but I expect that given age and it doesn't vent back into carb. I did just notice some oil at head to block area on one side. Since I now have a decent leakdown tester I will do one. Is there any chance a leaky head gasket with hiss on the test. I'm expecting some hiss from the dipstick for sure.

[bgsengine]

Still smoked at startup and did another cutting. Again it never stopped. There is some smoke out breather but I expect that given age and it doesn't vent back into carb.

Common with plugged air cleaners, it'll suck in air through the breather, meaning it'll be sucking in oil mist from breather...

I did just notice some oil at head to block area on one side. Since I now have a decent leakdown tester I will do one. Is there any chance a leaky head gasket with hiss on the test. I'm expecting some hiss from the dipstick for sure.

Almost certainly you will get some leakage via head gasket - Those were VERY common issues with abused engines that allowed to overheat (is the flywheel rotating screen clear? cooling fins and ducts gunked up? both very common causes of this issue) - aluminum head and cast iron block, yep you are gonna see the thermal expansion crush the gasket beyond any recovery limits, and as it cools down and shrinks the aluminum cools faster and causes gasket layer separation.. So, cooling and maintenance are very important on these engines.. Possible you may *almost* eliminate the oil burning with a good maintenance and cooling system cleaning, new head gasket, properly torqued, and get on the owner's butt about making sure the rotating screen (critically important) being kept clear - if the rotating screen gets plugged up with grass or debris, there's no cooling air coming in so engine will be re-circulating hot air that is drawn in from engine block area. (It is also important to check the equipment's shrouds and baffles to allow sufficient air flow to get to rotating screen from somewhere that isn't drawing it in through hot components like a hydro drive unit's cooling air flow, or in along a hot muffler shroud, etc) On tear down you'll very likely find a somewhat egged (out of round) bore, worn rings and likely a chunk of top of piston (right along the edge that borders valve area) eaten away by carbon build-up.. also quite common on those K-series that have been neglected.. But chances are you'd solve a large portion of the oil burning with some basic maintenance and a new head gasket.

[38racing]

Still smoked at startup and did another cutting. Again it never stopped. There is some smoke out breather but I expect that given age and it doesn't vent back into carb.

Common with plugged air cleaners, it'll suck in air through the breather, meaning it'll be sucking in oil mist from breather...

I did just notice some oil at head to block area on one side. Since I now have a decent leakdown tester I will do one. Is there any chance a leaky head gasket with hiss on the test. I'm expecting some hiss from the dipstick for sure.

Almost certainly you will get some leakage via head gasket - Those were VERY common issues with abused engines that allowed to overheat (is the flywheel rotating screen clear? cooling fins and ducts gunked up? both very common causes of this issue) - aluminum head and cast iron block, yep you are gonna see the thermal expansion crush the gasket beyond any recovery limits, and as it cools down and shrinks the aluminum cools faster and causes gasket layer separation.. So, cooling and maintenance are very important on these engines.. Possible you may *almost* eliminate the oil burning with a good maintenance and cooling system cleaning, new head gasket, properly torqued, and get on the owner's butt about making sure the rotating screen (critically important) being kept clear - if the rotating screen gets plugged up with grass or debris, there's no cooling air coming in so engine will be re-circulating hot air that is drawn in from engine block area. (It is also important to check the equipment's shrouds and baffles to allow sufficient air flow to get to rotating screen from somewhere that isn't drawing it in through hot components like a hydro drive unit's cooling air flow, or in along a hot muffler shroud, etc) On tear down you'll very likely find a somewhat egged (out of round) bore, worn rings and likely a chunk of top of piston (right along the edge that borders valve area) eaten away by carbon build-up.. also quite common on those K-series that have been neglected.. But chances are you'd solve a large portion of the oil burning with some basic maintenance and a new head gasket.

Thanks. I'm just concerned about head bolts. My practice is to use a hand impact (hammer operated) to loosen. Video I watched suggests new grade 8. Can't image my hardwares will have. Eight of ten hardwares in my area didn't have solid aluminum dryer duct.