Yes, I'm a Nikki carb replacer

[hanz63]

Speaking of which. I recently lost my nice JD discount as the dealership was eaten by a bigger one. Any decent online sources? Especially for belts and such. I signed up for one and tried them out. My discount was 20% PLUS list....

[KE4AVB]

Yelp here we go.

They are nuts for asking 10.50 for a simple o-ring. I believe I can source that o-ring much cheaper otherwise once I know its size. Of course Kawasaki at one time wanted nearly 8.00 for a now obsolete o-ring which isn't actually unavailable. I know as I just got a pack of 10 of them for a 1.80 plus shipping but I also some JD spindle oil seals that they want 25.00 ea for 8.20 each. So basically I got the 3 seal I was needing for the price one from JD. And the Kawasaki oil seal I was needing for a F525 is currently on 8 week nationwide back order but I just got the replacement oil this week after awaiting a week.

Boy it pays to know how to find the alternates.

I use Green Farm Parts myself which gives me about a 10% discount.

[hanz63]

I won't even work on an F series. Dealers can have them!

[Arkie]

Speaking of Nikki carbs:

Do not feel like the Lone Ranger with Nikki carb issues. Seems most common issue with the Nikki's are engine surging and hunting.

25 hp CV730 0017 Kohler started surging and hunting. Removed the backfire solenoid which drained the bowl. Removed the gas input line to the carb and let the bowl fill with de-natured alcohol and all ok for about a month. Started surging again. Engine was being used almost daily after first carb issue, non-ethanol gas and good fuel filter. Removed the carb, cleaned bowl and used low pressure air around passages. Little better, can run at high speed using little bit of choke.
Idle is not good. I'll replace with the $30 clone type and then maybe completely go through the OEM one.

When go back I'll be trying to find and clean the emulsion tube at step 12 at this link for the Kohler command v twin engine with the Nikki carb at this link.
Anyone have any tips, etc, about this type carb?
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ko ... i_carb.asp
Anyone know the engine/carb symptoms if the accelerator pump portion starts going bad?


Here is a link that has carb tips for several types of carbs with pictures.
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

[hanz63]

"Anyone know the engine/carb symptoms if the accelerator pump portion starts going bad?"
If I recall I've replaced one pump ever at a very princely sum- and it flooded badly. If yours has the spring loaded float valve, replace it. One other was giving me fits. Seemed carb related. Clean clean clean. Decided to lift the plunger out for the anti backfire solenoid. Ran Tony the Tiger Grrreat! Funky ignition switch. Both of those were a while ago. It almost seems like I had one of those too in a box that didn't want to fly straight. Welcome to the club!

[StarTech]

We all get crazy problems but the carburetors that gives the most problem is still the cubes. As for the fore mention Nikki by Arkie I haven't seen one of them in over 5 yrs even back then I wasn't having any problem rebuilding them. I probably just lucky as I can't be that good.

Hanz, what I hate is where the owner clips the solenoid and brings it in complaining of after fire problems. They go through the roof after I clean the carburetor, install a kit, and a new solenoid. As for those spring loaded float valves that why I pressure the carburetors before reinstall. Those Nikki float valves are the expensive part of the repair kits.

And I can't avoid the Kawasaki engines here as a lot of the equipment I get has them. So glad I found a way of getting the parts for the ones on JD without having to go through JD most times. Oh JD is good at hiding the PNs by using their own PNs but I have a way of getting around that for now. But there is some parts that are propriety to JD so I am stuck getting them from JD but those are fairly rare to fail.

And Now that Kawasaki is coming with new fuel injection system I am looking at buying the interface with is around $500-$600 retail. Probably wont do it until next Spring, business for this year has already tanked here.

[hanz63]

Is there a collective list somewhere on JD ---> engine OEM parts? Most of the newer carb stuff on - like X300 carbs are simple enough. It is strange though, there are times you go yikes on a JD price for a Kawasaki. But many times too, the Kawasaki is much pricier. I needed a starter as one on an X lost its magnets. Deere wasn't cheap, but like 80$ less.

It would be good to hear everyone's aftermarket carb go 2's and how long they've been using , reliability. Rarely will I use an aftermarket because the few I have used were crap or turned to crap.

[Arkie]

Speaking of Nikki carbs:

Do not feel like the Lone Ranger with Nikki carb issues. Seems most common issue with the Nikki's are engine surging and hunting.

25 hp CV730 0017 Kohler started surging and hunting. Removed the backfire solenoid which drained the bowl. Removed the gas input line to the carb and let the bowl fill with de-natured alcohol and all ok for about a month. Started surging again. Engine was being used almost daily after first carb issue, non-ethanol gas and good fuel filter. Removed the carb, cleaned bowl and used low pressure air around passages. Little better, can run at high speed using little bit of choke.
Idle is not good. I'll replace with the $30 clone type and then maybe completely go through the OEM one.

When go back I'll be trying to find and clean the emulsion tube at step 12 at this link for the Kohler command v twin engine with the Nikki carb at this link.
Anyone have any tips, etc, about this type carb?
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ko ... i_carb.asp
Anyone know the engine/carb symptoms if the accelerator pump portion starts going bad?


Here is a link that has carb tips for several types of carbs with pictures.
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

follow up to the above post about surging and hunting Nikki carbs on a KOhler engine. (could have just labeled the engine Tecumseh and surging would been normal thing but I had prev seen the carb run great.
Replaced the expensive Nikki carb with a $28 clone from amazon. Installed a 24 853 90S carb, $28 from Amazon.
Engine was useable but did not idle smooth and no adjustments on the carbs. Had to do some monor mod's to the China clone carb to get a fittament. (typical clone carb) Replacement carb Allowed use of the mower while working on the OEM carb.
I removed the bowl and the top plate leaving the accelerator pump area as is.
Carefully removed the brass emulsion tubes with proper fit screwdrivers, top idle one has to come out first rodded all the itty bitty holes in the emulsion tubes and the carb, ran through a Ultra using 50/50 mix of heated white vinegar and H20 and re-installed and all ok again.
Did not have to buy a kit. the top plate gasket was easily made from gasket material and the old bowl o ring re-sealed ok.