hard 9re) starting briggs

[38racing]

wonder if you maybe have a camshaft problem, or crank timing gear key... sounds a lot like a valve issue to me..

Yet cold start with pull cord is exactly how it should be.

[38racing]

Try changing the plug gap to .025 instead .030.

Since new plug seemed to previously fix the problem I'll try another new but gap to 25 .

[38racing]

Ordered leakdown tester from rockauto.com. 76 cdn including shipping and tax. Would have been 200 cdn from local NAPA. Meanwhile I forgot to bring new plug but the carb arrived from Amazon. As per reviews of others it won't prime and choke plate holes are bigger. Started on choke with electric start. Still much the same on pull cord. Once with choke applied it started on the 5th pull. Next try on the 8th. Next time I quit after 12 with no start. Hit electric start and it fires right up. I will try to remember the new plug for tomorrow as I wait for leakdown tester. Might see if the 5hp is retrievable from the shed to spec it . I actually had it mounted on this blower but decided to get bigger engine with electric start as I thought I was selling it. I could have used the 5hp for the little of blowing I do here at the church.

[38racing]

Lol I just watched a leakdown video and probably why my homemade didn't work with the new hose was that there was a Schrader valve needle in the cylinder end that I forgot to remove. I had the needle in the back of my mind as I recall now having to put it back in if I was transferring hose back to a compression tester.
Found something else interesting on the video. On my homemade it's simply two gauges of 100 psi range with orifice in between. With valve left in outlet both gauges read same psi ( set at my compressor regulator) as no flow. Then with valve out and some flow the 2nd gauge reads lower. I figure my leakdown is the difference divided by psi on 1st. Watching a couple of videos I see factory gauge has what appears to be a regulator at start which is used with no flow to set 2nd gauge full clockwise. When flow happens the 2nd moves counterclockwise. I can't say that I understand how the gauge is working. On my homemade gauges have same range. Is it just a case that on factory the 2nd gauge range is much lower, like maybe 20 psi since it's full clockwise when first gauge is at about 20 psi.

[38racing]

So I'm watching another video. Factory gauge looks the same albeit a snapon. 1st gauge is at 90 and 2nd is not quite fully clockwise. Guy has it hooked to a 427 cobra that has 176 psi on the compression test.

[KE4AVB]

The leak down test gauge I got from Harbor Freight uses only 10-30 psi [mine tests at 12 psi] to test with which makes it nice when working OHV engines as you can disable the valve train and hand cycle the cylinder checking the lower levels and not just having to lock at TDC. I have found several tapered cylinders this way.

[38racing]

Mine has just shipped from Miami to Ontario Canada for 15$ cdn shipping including the brokerage fees. I can post a small package within Ontario for that.

[38racing]

So another new plug at .025 with original carb . No improvement. Couple time it started with choke after at least 4 pulls. Then 12 pulls with nothing. Electric continues to start it. Going to wait until I can do the leakdown. Will try a cold pull cord start tomorrow with prime and choke. Shouldn't really need either on hot start but then again neither seems to help either.

[38racing]

Leakdown tester sat for a week in Memphis FedEx centre due to storms in late Feb. So I set it up to test the 750 new engine. I set my compressor to 50 psi. Following instructions I turn new tester regulator until leak side gauge says 0 and at that point left gauge is 15. I have piston tdc compression. Attach gauge to plug hose and it says 80 leakdown but no hisses. I rotate to tdc exhaust. Redo and same leak reading on gauge with lots of hiss. Rotate back to tdc compression and do again and leakdown is less than 10. ??? I think this gauge is finicky. The calibration may be critical. With it connected and showing 10 leakdown if I turn the regulator knob I can get it read anywhere from 0 to 100. I'm seriously considering using the hoses only from the new tester on my homemade one.

[38racing]

time flies. gave up working on this as spring arrived. back to it now. despite all the timing tests I did I just checked flywheel key. right where it should be. next step is leakdown. I have modified the leak down tester that I bought last year. should give proper result. I replaced 2nd gauge and eliminated quick connection after the gauges.